Paper Mapper
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Thursday, September 4, 2025
Ryker Goes to Tillamook: Final Leg
Thursday, August 28, 2025
Ryker Goes to Tillamook: Limping Home
It was somewhat cloudy but still dry at the Missoula Super 8, as departure preparations were underway. I'd risen at 4:30 after a fraction over three hours of sleep. The hope was to make it home by dark - even though I'd be tackling the gravel pass I'd skipped because of bad weather on my trip west.
The collision with the deer the previous night had broken some of the fasteners that hold on various plastic parts. There'd been no issue at the slower speeds I'd maintained getting to the motel, but I thought I'd better batten down the hatches before achieving full daylight velocities. To that end, I zip-tied the lower edge of the left side cowling to the frame, below the headlight. Notice the big crack in that corner of the hood? It wasn't going anywhere though - just unsightly.
Then I zip-tied the radiator grill cover to the steel guard underneath it. That should do. Funny how I'd overcome two instances of electronic "Limp Home Mode" activation on this trip - only to end up limping home physically with a broken headlight and temporary body work repairs.
I was all ready to go at 5:30. The full breakfast was still not set out, so I grabbed a couple of pre-wrapped muffins and stuffed them in my tank bag for later. There'd been four other cycles parked around the front door when I'd arrived in the dark - and they were all still there. It was not a race, of course, but I was winning!
An hour later, it sprinkled a little as I passed through Hamilton, MT. On the south edge of town, I found the turn for Highway 38 (aka Skalkaho Pass Road) and took it, heading east. At first, it was a nice two-lane, running through a residential area. Then I passed an open gate, and it narrowed to a roughly paved single-lane route, as it began to climb into the mountains.
The rain had stopped, and it looked like I'd have no more trouble in that regard. The observant viewer will notice though - only one of the two primary headlights is shining. Fortunately, there are still the LED lights down lower and the marker lights over each wheel. My degree of visibility remained rather high.
Near the top, the pavement gave way to a hardened native surface with frequent boulders poking through. There was no real gravel to smooth things out.
It was nothing Ryker couldn't easily handle, but I took it pretty slow - so I could handle the beating better! Guess it looks fairly nice in this photo, but it really wasn't.
Beautiful scenery though!
Eventually, I met a couple of pick-ups coming the other way. They didn't say anything, so I figured the road must be open all the way through.
This gushing falls was a pleasant surprise. It reminded me a lot of one of my last road improvement projects on the Tillamook Forest. A very similar cascade used to frequently wash out one of our district's mainlines, so I specified a larger culvert and administered the contract to have it replaced. Problem solved - a least for a while.
When the road narrowed even further, I began to wonder how bad it was going to get. I'd been going only 10-15 mph for miles - a far cry from the well-graded 35 mph gravel road I was expecting.
And then the surface turned muddy - and I was even more glad that I hadn't attempted this route in the rain and snow earlier in the week.
About this time, a small two-wheel-drive car approached, meandering around the largest rocks. If he could make it, so could Ryker and I!