Ryker Goes to Tillamook: Back Entry to the Gem State

 

I was up at 4:30 a.m. - and immediately turned on the electric wall heater.  My room did not have A/C, but I hadn't needed that the evening before.  I hadn't needed the heat all night either, but now there was a damp chill that I wanted to rectify while I could.  The puddles and clouds outside meant that, like the day before, I'd soon be at the mercy of less than ideal elements again - at least for a while.

I'd slept very well, but the tips of my fingers were sore.  Sounds strange, I know.  But it's quite common for me by the third morning.  Always goes away though, once my hands get used to the constant vibration again, I guess.  My back and shoulders were much better.  And I'd be grateful for that when I got down to all the twisties in the Idaho panhandle.

I was off by 6:00 and reached the end of the pavement in only a few miles.  It had actually been dry while I loaded up, but began spitting immediately after leaving St. Regis.  The correct road had not been hard to find, as it was well signed.  The big question was whether there would be snow up on the unnamed pass.  Down here, it was 50 degrees.

There'd been some washboards on the flats, but when the route began to climb, the surface smoothed out nicely.  The conditions reminded me a lot of the Tillamook Forest in Oregon - road, trees, and weather.  That short bridge behind me looked very similar to one I had specked out before leaving my job with the Department of Forestry there.  Good times.

It seemed just a shade lighter up ahead.  I took it as a good sign.

Again, this rock cut above the road reminded me of another project I had worked on.  Guess I was in a nostalgic mood, as I prepared to reenter the Pacific Northwest after three years away.

It was gratifying to be on gravel - after abandoning the plan for that the previous day.  And it was oh so encouraging to see some blue sky above the next mountain range!

This sign was posted at a junction near the top.  I'd come 16 miles from town, with two more to go before leaving Montana and entering Idaho.  The Little Joe was the route I'd be following toward Washington.  It would meander along the Saint Joe River.  Always nice to get confirmation that you're on the right track.

But remember what I said about both sides of a pass rarely having the same weather?  In those last two miles to the summit, the clearing conditions swung around 180 degrees, until I was pointing into a fog that was nearly as thick and wet as the one I'd fought my way through on Day 2.

I got off the bike and unstrapped and pulled on my rain jacket.  But at least there was no snow.  That top white sign says, "ENTERING SHOSHONE COUNTY."  It was the closest I got to "WELCOME TO IDAHO."  

As reported on the Internet, the pavement had resumed at the border.  And as I dropped in elevation, the weather  had improved.  There would be no snow that day!

The tight curves had only just begun, however.  It was supposed to be 30 miles from St. Regis, over the mountain, and back down to the river - and 70 more after that to the nearest real town.  And it would be twisty all the way!

I think this was the point at which the smaller stream I'd been following met the Saint Joe.  But there was water everywhere.  I can't say for sure.

I'm more confident that it was near this point that I encountered my first fellow travelers in two hours.  It was 8:00, and some early rising fishermen had made it up this far from one of the campgrounds downstream, I surmised.  I waved enthusiastically, yet maturely, of course.

The nicely-paved road was always within sight of the water, and occasionally at the base (or top) of rocky canyon walls.

At one point, I spotted this swinging trail bridge - and had to double back for a closer look!

Ryker wouldn't fit, so I had to go on foot.

The view from the middle was worth the extra few minutes.  It was time to get off the bike and stretch a bit anyway.

The first sign of civilization - unless you count campgrounds - was the near ghost town of Avery.  One of central Idaho's many one-store communities, it was the perfect place for another little break.  I went in for a drink and a snack, of course, as they had just opened for business.

Think I might even take off my rain gear!